Monday, 19 October 2009

Lima part 1- Óh dear, what have I gotten myself into?´

To pick up where I left off in my last post - for a 36 hour bus journey, it was actually quite nice. The bus was only half full so each person had two seats to stretch out on, we stopped every 6 hours or so for a meal and to stretch our legs, and I started reading For Whom the Bell Tolls. Not too bad, all things considered. I was a bit worried at the border crossing, because I´d taken my Twinings English Breakfast teabags out of the cardboard box and put them in a carrier bag to make them easier to pack. And I thought - what if they think they´re drugs?! Oh god, I´m going to be one of those girls that you read about, stuck in a foreign jail for years, wasting away, filth be-smeared and singing rubbish karaoke ala Bridget Jones. Luckily that didn´t happen. The most eventful thing that happened at the border was two lads trying to chat me up and then stealing my pen... and it was my favourite pen too. How very dare they.
The high point of the journey was our first glimpse of the ocean! All the South Americans on the bus started yelling and shouting, and I don´t know what they were saying because my Spanish is still appalling, but I like to think it was Óh my god, look, it´s the bloody ocean!´because that is what I was thinking.

As we finally drove into Lima, I started to panic a bit. It looked horrible; all grey buildings, grey sky and dirty shacks. ´This is where I´m going to live for months? Why did I do this to myself? How quickly can I leave and go somewhere clean?´ Those are some of the thoughts I was having. It was 3pm when we arrived. Jo and I unfolded ourselves, gathered up various possessions that had become spread around the bus and stood on a dirty Liman pavement, feeling quite at a loss.
As all travellers will know, the best thing to do when at a loss is the head for the nearest internet cafe. So that is what we did. And there is something about the internet that is warmly reassuring - you have facebook, BBC news, blogs of friends, emails from family etc. and so you just don´t feel so lost anymore.
Jo and I gathered our thoughts, girded our loins, and booked into a hostel - The Flying Dog Hostel, well recommended by guidebooks, cousin Claire and various others. And now I shall recommend it to you, although if any of you come to Lima you wont need a hostel because you can stay with me! But yes, it is a lovely place full of lovely people who have been very nice and welcoming. Although I suppose that´s their job. In which case, they´re very good at their job.
The view from the hostel balcony^^

The next few days, we ambled around Lima and realised that in fact parts of it are really really pretty and nice. So I stopped panicking about how I was going to cope whilst living here. We went to Barranco, a beachy suburb, and paddled in the ocean (and got sunburnt). I wrote a LOT of postcards. We saw some Inca ruin-y type things (see facebook photo album), and some posh palace-y architecure-y type things (ditto). Most interestingly, I signed up to a website called Couchsurfing.org. On couch-surfing.org, a lot of very kind-hearted and brave people offer their spare-rooms/couches for travellers to sleep in. Also, some people don´t have space for someone to stay, but are very happy to meet up for a coffee/tea/drink and a chat, and give advice and guidance and friendship. Right, I thought. I need friends. I am going to be in Lima for a year, and I can´t spend a year making friends only with people in the hostel, who promptly leave as soon as you get to know them. So I emailed about 10 different people explaining who I was, why I was here, and would they like to meet up for coffee and a chat.
Yes yes yes, it is a bit dodgy meeting people off the internet. But I´m not stupid; I only messaged girls, we met in public places and I told the guys at the hostel where I was headed and what time I thought I´d be back. So it was fine. And I met Sosina, who is really friendly and has offered to teach me how to cook Peruvian dishes (yay!) and her parents don´t even speak Spanish as a first language, they speak Quechan, which is the pre-spanish invasion language. So Sosina is a proper proper Peruvian, which I think is very cool and exciting. But Sosina speaks English very well, which is good, and maybe when I get spanish lessons I can practice with her. And I met Nohelia, who is also Peruvian and also really friendly, and she has been very helpful in my apartment-hunting endeavors. Although her aunt did give me egg soup for lunch, and I ate it and everything but good grief it was disgusting. Egg soup? Who ever heard of such a thing.

I have also made lots of friends with people in the hostel, although ´friends´might be pushing it because many of them have left now, never to be heard from again probably. But such is travelling, and I enjoyed meeting Jennifer (US); Tina and Naomi (Australian); Neve and Emma and the other I´ve forgotten the name of (Irish); Hannie (dutch); Thea and Arti (Norwegian); that Columbian boy I also can´t remember the name of; Joel (also columbian); and Steve, Prescott, Randy and Mather (US - but you can tell that just from their names. Randy?! Mather?! Ahahaha, ridiculously American. Of course they think I´m ridiculously English as well. Which is true. But they say ´dude´and áwesome´and stuff. It´s very funny.)... Umm, yes, well anyway, I enjoyed meeting them all however briefly. (See, Joe Sandys, I AM being friendly, I´m not hiding away under my covers with a book... OK, so I may have done that the first few nights. But now I´m well into the swing of things).
Slightly less temporarily, I´ve also gotten to know the people who work at the hostel, such as Beto (short for Alberto) who has been ridiculously helpful in my apartment-hunt. Because I don´t speak Spanish, he rings up all the landlords etc. for me to organise viewings, and then comes with me to the viewings so I don´t get lost. And Neto (short for Nelson) who I went for a walk with and ended up in this really cool tea-bar that did all sorts of different teas. And Harry, who is mad and takes groups of people out dancing every night, hurrah, I love dancing! Salsa, anyone?

Right, umm, oh dear, this has been a rather long post. My next one will be short and snappy, I promise.

Oh, and I have my first class tomorrow evening. I´m terrified, I´ve forgotten how to teach! But the place where I´m working seems really good, very professional and organised. Which is reassuring.

And here is another photo, because otherwise this post will be hideously text-heavy.
That´s me, that is ^^
Bye bye for now

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